This article is from the March 2003 The Mexico
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Winging to Loreto
A new flight provides exciting prospects for tourists and
their hosts
by Maribeth Mellin
Maribeth Mellin is a San Diego writer and author of the Traveler�s Mexico Companion (Globe Pequot)
When AeroMexico announced its new twice-weekly flights from San Diego to Loreto, I could hardly believe my good fortune. There are precious few flights from San Diego to Mexico. Could there possibly be regular service to this small mission town tucked between the Sierra de la Giganta and the Sea of Cortez in a remote part of southern Baja?
A dozen years back, my husband-to-be Gary introduced me to the mystical beauty of Baja during his annual July fishing expedition. We drove the 750-mile stretch of the Transpeninsular Highway from Tijuana to Loreto several times afterward, listening to old Chicago tapes and exchanging bits of personal history. It�s been a few years since we�ve made that long, lazy journey, camping by the sea for weeks on end. The idea of flying to Loreto instead of driving was absolutely exhilarating. Now we could go for a weekend, a week, or as long as we wished on a whim.
Gary and I boarded a plane to Loreto soon after the inaugural flight and talked abut our many road trips down Baja while looking down upon the narrow, hilly, twisting highway as it disappeared amid cacti forests and rocky plateaus. Normally, it would take us two days to reach our favorite Baja hideaway. This time, in just two hours we were walking alongside the Sea of Cortez, watching the sun drop between mountain ridges and plop into what must have been a cauldron of coral dust that spread in rosy streaks through the sky. The bell in the campanile at the Camino Real Hotel tolled six times, announcing the cocktail hour.
We had definitely arrived in the new Loreto.
The Future Unfolds
The hotel sits at the edge of the golf course in Nopol�, a master-planned community developed by FONATUR, Mexico�s National Trust for Tourism Development. The resort�s infrastructure was first carved into the desert terrain five miles south of central Loreto in the 1970s, around the same time as the government was developing resorts in Ixtapa, Los Cabos, and Canc�n. For years the place looked like a desert mirage of telephone poles and asphalt streets. Nopol� and Loreto languished, never gaining the fame of the FONATUR resorts at Los Cabos and Canc�n. While those tourism magnets grew and grew, Loreto remained a peaceful small town favored by anglers who arrived in caravans of RVs and boats every summer to fish for dorado and tuna in the fertile sea. Campgrounds were as popular as hotels, and the annual visitors were happy with the small, dependable selection of restaurants and taco stands.
But in the past year, FONATUR has paid considerable attention to the loveliest town in Baja, helping to beautify the waterfront, build the new Nopol� hotel (now managed by Camino Real) and support AeroMexico's twice-weekly flight from San Diego.
Why all this action now?
�Because it�s time,� Peter Maxwell, director of Loreto�s development for FONATUR told me as we cruised along the waterfront in a comfy yacht. Golden mountain peaks cupped the town�s modest expanse; palms camouflaged the bell tower of the Misi�n de Nuestra Se�ora de Loreto, site of the first mission in the Californias.
�This place has never taken off as it should,� Maxwell said, ticking off Loreto�s attributes as we searched for sea lions off Punta Lobos and passed kayakers by a pure white beach on Isla Coronado. Gary and I grinned, recalling the many hours we�d spent on these waters in our small aluminum boat.
The Sea of Cortez is Loreto�s most valuable natural asset. Scientists and environmentalists say it is one of the most diverse marine nurseries and habitats in the world. Manta rays leap, spin, and splash on the water�s surface in the summer as dolphins practice their choreography beside pangas (local fiberglass skiffs). Swarms of dorado, tuna, and marlin attract hundreds of anglers to Loreto from June to September. From December to March, blue whales, orcas, finbacks and sperm whales all migrate near Loreto�s shores. The town is also close to the gray whale breeding grounds at Magdalena Bay and San Ignacio Lagoon on Baja�s Pacific coast, and several international tour companies have made it their base for whale-watching tours that incorporate both the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific.
We were too early to witness this awesome phenomenon. Instead, it seemed like we were in the only boat on the sea, sailing near the end of nowhere. But I�d seen Holland America�s Ryndam just outside Loreto�s small marina the previous day, certainly a sign of significant change. The town was abuzz with the news of the ship�s arrival. Taxis, vans, and horse-drawn carriages lined the waterfront, awaiting the arrival of several hundred cruise-ship passengers on the day�s excursions. The souvenir stands were packed with trinkets and abuzz with activity. Even the town dogs, who normally snooze in front of shop windows, seemed energized.
A few cruise lines now include Loreto in their winter itineraries, brining an influx of tourist cash. The ships are just one of the factors creating a buzz around Loreto. FONATUR�s marina at Puerto Escondido near Nopol� is called the �Capital of the Escalera Nautica,� a proposed chain of new marinas. Investors are building condos and villas in Nopol� and discussing plans for more resort hotels and communities.
�Loreto is a rediscovered destination,� Maxwell said.
Loreto Today
Progress has been kind to downtown Loreto thus far, as we learned after we moved from our cushy digs at the Camino Real to the dear old Hotel Oasis on the waterfront. The hotel has been catering to Baja regulars for decades, offering simple accommodations, hearty meals, and a comfortable sense of camaraderie. Our room had a couple of plastic chairs outside the door and windows that opened to the music of crashing waves. A few wind-worn hammocks swung between palms by a small beach. It felt like the good old Loreto we knew and loved.
The malec�n (seafront walkway) just outside the front door was certainly different. Piles of boulders forming a seawall are now topped with a concrete sidewalk. We sat on a brand-new green park bench and watched the moon rise from the sea like a ghostly white orb, then walked on past joggers and serious walkers getting their evening�s exercise.
The dirt streets of the past were paved. Archways formed from entwined tree branches framed a pedestrian path along Calle Salvatierra from the waterfront to the modest mission church and El Museo de los Misiones, also called the Museum of Anthropology and History. La Misi�n de Nuestra Se�ora de Loreto was Baja�s first mission church, founded in 1697. The stone church�s bell tower is the town�s main landmark, rising above the main plaza.
Loreto was the head of a chain of missions from the southern tip of Baja to San Francisco, in the land then known as Alta California, in the 1700s. When Mexico achieved independence from Spain in 1821, the missionaries were sent home. Loreto�s mission was abandoned and fell into disrepair.
Then in 1829, a hurricane virtually destroyed the settlement, capital of the Californias at the time. The church was extensively damaged, the capital was moved to La Paz, and Loreto fell into obscurity. The church was restored in 1976, and now proudly boasts a sign reading �Head and Mother of the Missions of Lower and Upper California.�
It�s a modest building when compared with the ornate churches on Mexico�s mainland. But there�s always something happening here, be it a wedding, christening, or evening Mass. Bicycles were lined up along the outer walls of the church as we passed by on our evening stroll, and the sound of voices joined in song drew us through the wooden doors.
After mingling with the locals after Mass, we continued our stroll along Salvatierra. Old adobe houses held stylish galleries where we shopped for handcrafted silver brooches and reproductions of the petroglyphs found in mountain caves above town.
Any doubts about Loreto�s transformation from a fishermen�s hangout to a classy vacation destination were erased as we dined on sublime bruschetta, ripe tomatoes with goat cheese, marinated beef and imported Spanish wine at a wood table in front of Pachamama�s restaurant. The stylish restaurant is one of several new establishments opened by expats and locals to serve the burgeoning tourist trade. Fellow diners told us to be sure to sample the ice cream at the shop down the street, and said they frequented Pachamama�s on a regular basis. So did we, without ever being disappointed.
On the Road
Since we were focusing more on sightseeing than fishing (the water�s were rough and the fish scarce in November), we rented a car and headed north to Mulege, where I planned to escape civilization at the isolated Posada Punta Chivato. I was in for a surprise. Expecting to rattle along a rough dirt track to the tip of this isolated pointed north of Mulege, we instead found a smooth graded road lined with signs for housing developments. An American flag hung outside a sales office and bulldozers rumbled as they carved out streets and housing tracts. It seemed Punta Chivato had been discovered.
The old hotel by the long airstrip has been restored and looks like a golden hacienda set against a background of deep blue sky and sea. Our room was a bit of a disappointment, since we couldn�t see or hear the water. The antique furnishings were lovely, but the hot water didn't work � a major minus in an expensive hotel. Still the bar atop a cliff above the waves was the perfect place to enjoy a sunset Margarita after walking on the beach. Next time we�ll splurge on an oceanfront room with a fireplace and seafront terrace.
We returned to Loreto the next day and checked into the chic Posada de las Flores, an expensive boutique hotel beside the newly landscaped plaza. The rose-colored hotel has drastically changed the appearance of Loreto�s plaza, and is certainly a classy addition to the local scene. Antiques fill the expansive lobby and hallways. Light filters in from the rooftop swimming pool (whose bottom forms the lobby�s ceiling). Stairways lead to the pool and sun terrace with comfy couches and lounge chairs and the best views of downtown Loreto backed by mountain peaks. Our room was dark and once again lacked hot water, but the cushy bed was a delight and it was great fun to watch the town wind down in the evening as we sipped drinks on the roof.
The next morning we headed south of town and Nopol� to Danzante Resort, a truly peaceful hideaway south of town. Owners Michael and Lauren Farley are Baja experts, writers, and underwater photographers who�ve been studying the Sea of Cortez for decades. After searching for the perfect setting, the Farleys created a hilltop retreat that�s both architecturally stunning and ecologically sensitive. The rooms open to views of Isla Danzante and have the requisite hammocks swinging in the breeze on the terraces.
The commodious rooms are stocked with plenty of books, binoculars, info on the area, bent twig furnishings, and wrought iron headboards. Phones and TVs are nonexistent, except for sporadic cellular phone access. Excellent meals (don't miss the lobster tacos) are served in the large combo lounge and dining room, where Michael Farley entertains guests with tales of Baja. There�s a dive shop on the premises, and plenty of activities available, including mountain hikes, kayaking, birdwatching, and relaxing amid friends. We left for town reluctantly, vowing to return for that peaceful escape I�d been seeking.
Back in town, we stopped by Pachamama�s for one last dinner and talked with a couple from Seattle celebrating their purchase of a condo at Nopol�. Strolling the back streets, I spotted an old, rundown hacienda-style house that I�d fallen for a decade ago. It looked like it was for sale.
Who knows? Maybe we�ll buy a vacation hideaway in Loreto now that we can easily fly back home.
If You Go
Getting There: AeroMexico flies between Loreto and San Diego, continuing on to Mexico City, on Thursday and Sunday. Call (800) 237-6639 or check out www.aeromexico.com
Staying There: Loreto�s hotels run the gamut from small, basic motels to pricey inns. Most have hot water (though it can be sporadic). Swimming pools are usually not heated and give new meaning to the word �refreshing� in winter.
Camino Real The most lavish hotel in the area is in Nopol� and has a perfect beach, a full water sports center and a gym. Fortunately, the food is good and reasonably priced � the hotel�s restaurant is the only option around. If you�re feeling flush, book a rooftop suite with a hot tub on the terrace and stunning views of Nopol�s golf course and the sea of Cortez. (800) 873-7484, www.loretobaja.com .
Danzante Resort This peaceful hideaway is a favorite of active travelers including divers, hikers, and kayakers. An all-inclusive meal plan is available. (408) 354-0042, www.danzante.com .
Hotel Oasis This simple hotel with a friendly staff, good food and chatty clientele has been catering to fishermen and wanderers since 1960. (800) 497-3923, www.hoteloasis.com
Hotel Posada de los Flores Loreto�s most stylish hotel sits in downtown beside the plaza and is favored by European travelers. Two restaurants serve expensive, gourmet Mexican and Italian fare. (877) 245-2860, www.posadadelasflores.com .
Villas de Loreto Bungalows and a beach house sit beside a beach on the southern edge of town. TVs and phones are nonexistent, but there�s a pool, well-stocked book exchange, a dive shop and bicycle and kayak rentals. (613) 135-0586; www.villasdeloreto.com .
What to Do: Loreto is perfect for whale watching both in the Sea of Cortez and at Magdalena Bay, less than a two-hour drive away on the Pacific Coast. Kayaking around Loreto�s islands is popular, as are diving, snorkeling, and fishing. Some companies also offer tours to the cave paintings in the mountains and to Mis�on San Javier, a well-preserved mission church and small town 20 miles southwest of Loreto. Most activities can be arranged through the hotels.
Information: For general tourist information call the Loreto Tourist Office at 011-52-613-135-0411, or check out the Loreto Hotel Association web site at www.gotoloreto.com