Off the Beaten Path
by Bruce McGovern
It’s no secret that
I’d rather have my teeth drilled than go to a tourist place. Of course, that
means I’m not a source of hot tips to the ordinary tourist. But, I realize
there are other people who, like me, love Mexico, but don’t want the
standard tourist experience, either.
So, I’d like to share
three places I’ve been that usually only attract the Mexican people. I was
taken there by family or friends. Hardy, more experienced travelers may be
able to get there with little help.
First, four or five years
ago, I attended a Scout leader campout at the lake near Molango, Hidalgo. From
Molango, looking down the mountain, there seems to be a tiny pond. It’s
actually a long ways down the mountain, and it’s a large lake. There is a
large grassy area east of the lake, where cows graze and where school and
Scout groups camp.
In the middle of the lake
is an island. White birds sit in the trees on that island. As in a National
Geographic documentary, at times they spontaneously fly around the lake in a
group, then land again.
The view up the mountain
can only be described as incredible.
The road from Molango to
the lake is paved. The only problem is the very steep climb back up. But, I
think any good vehicle can handle it – if it made the trip to Molango
through the mountains.
I’m not sure it’s
smart for a couple to camp alone on the lake. If your trip coincided with a
group campout, that would make a difference. And, I’m sure Molango has a
small hotel or two, though not rated for the international tourists, I’m
sure.
The next two places of
interest are in the Orizaba / Cordoba area. Use a map to locate Coscomatepec,
where the road west starts. After a modest distance along mountain ranges,
midst corn and potato fields, and deep valleys on both sides, you encounter a
fork in the road.
Left leads to Alpatlahuac,
a small village which boasts a church on a mountain side. Local legend claims
there are 500 steps leading to that church, but I counted. The south stairway
has 206 steps.
Due to renovation work, we
didn’t enter the church. But, the attraction is the view from the flat area
around the church. The village below, the surrounding mountain peaks and a
view along the valley of miles makes you want to sit and look for a long time.
The big volcano, Pico de Orizaba, is technically visible to the west, but
it’s usually hidden in the clouds.
Alpatlahuac is also
accessible by most vehicles.
The right fork leads to Calcahualac, a small village visible from the church. Calcahualac is unimportant, except for the boulevard. It is filled with shrubs, cut into a variety of shapes, including rabbits and airplanes.
If you have a pickup, or
any off‑road vehicle, or an OLD VW Beetle, keep on going, generally
keeping to the right, past Excola. You are looking for a sign that says Aguas
Termales, pointing right down the hillside, and it will lead you to Atotonilco.
Due to the 30 minutes Jeep‑test road of rocks and potholes, after you
leave the paved road, I really recommend that all but the most insane, er, I
mean, experienced explorer, hire a local person with his own highly
experienced Beetle to take you to Atotonilco.
If you assume I’m
exaggerating about the Jeep‑test road, are you in for a shock! Only once
in Mexico have I encountered a worse road. It drops and rises a
half‑mile or more in that 30 minutes, and it’s all mud and rocks and
potholes. It’s "Bang! Bump! Drag! Bang!" the whole way.
Where there is a fork, you
will generally take the bigger road.
Assuming you make it to
Atotonilco, it’s a small village. The place of attraction is a set of hot
pools, “aguas termales.” A pipe brings in naturally hot water, and it’s
mixed with water from the Pico to produce concrete pools of water that were
perfectly adjusted to human body temperature, including a pool for kiddies.
There is a concrete
restroom building, DAMAS and Unmarked. There is a flush stool, but the tank
was empty. Grab a bucket and get water from one of the pools to flush – or
to slosh down the floor, if you wish.
Admission is four pesos
per person. The woman who seems to run the place also offers 10 to 12 inch
trout, fried, for 30 pesos each. It comes on a chipped plate, with onions and
tomatoes, which I didn’t eat because we couldn’t verify they were
disinfected. After you place your order for trout, she walks to the trout pond
to buy the fish, so expect an hour or two delay. You’ll be eating that trout
with your fingers. But, it was excellent. I especially liked the skin; it was
deliciously crisp and lightly salted.
She also offers that trout
in caldo. Boiled Trout?? Blecchhh!!!
Across the road is a
pretty little Catholic Church. Next door is a working sawmill. Next to it is a
small building with rooms for rent overnight.
It’s not a real tourist place, so plan food ahead of time, though I
bet the trout woman could fix you up for a price if you can eat what she eats.
All around you are
mountain peaks, a kilometer or more high and covered with trees. After an hour
or two, the clouds come down. Later, it rained and cooled down. Never very hot
at this altitude, it’s rather exotic to be frolicking in a hot pool, beneath
fog‑covered mountains, with rain falling on your head, in an isolated
Mexican village. All for only four pesos – and $10,000US damage to any good
car you were silly enough to take, contrary to my advice.
You can wear anything in
the pools. I wore what I usually wear ‑ work jeans and t‑shirt,
but no shoes. I would recommend you take a swim suit, towel, and terry robe.
It’s very cold when you get out to eat, and a terry robe to slip on and off
would be fantastic. Also, have a large plastic bag for clothes and things when
it rains.
About 5 PM, as we were
leaving, the rain worsened. The Mexican Beetle had absolutely no hotair pipes,
so I used my towel to constantly clean the inside of the windshield, as my
nephew navigated the mud, rocks, and potholes. I asked him if we can go again,
next visit. Visiting Atotonilco was one of the most fun things I’ve ever
done in Mexico – but I had the
advantage of local talent to get me there and back in one piece. If you go
there, and not once say, “Wow! Neat!” you’re beyond help.
I have mixed feelings. For
the benefit of the poor people of that village, I’d like to see 500 tourists
a day go to Atotonilco. But, if they did, some rich guy would take over; build
a nice road; add a pizza place; raise the admission to ten dollars; and the
locals would have no place to swim. And, they'd still struggle to make a
living.