Down to the Banana Republic
Down to the tropical sun
Go the expatriated Americans
Hopin’ to find some fun 

Some of them go for the sailing
Brought by the lure of the sea
Tryin’ to find what is ailing
Living in the land of the free

– Jimmy Buffett, “Banana Republics” 

It was 1970 and I was in San Diego, where I still live, on summer break from college when I read an article about a small town deep in the Mexico jungle with the lyrical name of Puerto Vallarta. A paved road had just been built into the town from Tepic, making the drive there a possibility instead of flying or boating in, which was the only access prior to the new road. Having some time to kill and a few dollars to burn, I called my old high school friend, Tom Dawson, who was attending Stanford University, and asked if he wanted to join me on a Mexico road trip. A week later, my non-air-conditioned, beat-up 1966 VW bus, rolling on four bald tires and no jack, was loaded with a case of Dinty Moore beef stew, one loaf of bread, a jar of Jiffy and a couple cases of Oly in the cooler as we crossed the border into Mexico at Nogales. I’m pretty sure we had a map, but maybe not. All we knew was that we were heading south, it was cheap, and we were absolutely invincible. Plus, you never know, there might be some like-minded girls on those warm beaches. That’s about as deep as our 20-year-old minds went in those days. By the time we limped into San Carlos Bay just north of Guaymas, half way to Vallarta, all four tires had blown, the sun was blistering and the beer dwindling. In that short time we had learned what has been proven to be true many times during my travels –  the Mexican people will stop whatever they are doing and help you when you are too stupid to help yourself, expecting nothing in return. 

We pulled onto to the beach at San Carlos via an asphalt runaway leading into the just abandoned movie set for Catch -22, which had recently been released in theaters in the States. A couple of guys that had worked as grunts on the movie set were camped there, enthusiastically  pointing out the exact location that Paula Prentiss had shot her nude scene, as they described what the various bombed out buildings had been used for. When we dove into the translucent, blue Sea of Cortez, it was if we had jumped into someone’s personal aquarium, with vast schools of rainbow-colored tropical fish as thick as outhouse flies.  

A week or so later, after spending several days of camping on the beach in Mazatlan, and one night of getting devoured by blood-sucking no-see-ums on the beach in San Blas where the federales ran us out of town at daybreak after searching every inch of the van, in vain, for marijuana and weapons, we landed on the sleepy, cobble-stoned streets of Puerto Vallarta.  

In an instant I knew I had found “my place” – the place I never tire of, notwithstanding the massive construction and traffic that has transformed my sleepy village into a bustling city of 200,000. I have since traveled to Vallarta close to 100 times, often for long periods. And each time, without exception, I immediately hit the streets, walking the old neighborhoods where I first camped on the beach in the south end of town. And each time I become consumed with a feeling of complete contentment you can only feel when the weight of life’s demands slip off your back.   

I am repeatedly asked, “Why Mexico”? Why not France, Australia, Brazil, or Tucson? The plain and simple answer for me is because I have been to many countries and Mexico is the one I like the best. I like the people, the culture, the beaches, and the land. But, let’s be clear. It is not the best choice for everyone. If you are the type of person who demands that something be acted upon right now, you might like Switzerland, Sweden or San Francisco better, although finding a warm beach will be a challenge. The clock in Mexico keeps time a little differently than it does in many countries, and some gringos just never can adapt to that.

Having published The Mexico File since 1995, the question I have been most frequently asked is, “What’s the best place in Mexico”? And of course, the answer is that it all depends on what you like. I can tell you the area that I am most attracted to, but it probably won’t be yours. Although I greatly admire the colonial cities with their fascinating histories, culture, and architecture, I inevitably experience serious withdrawal symptoms whenever I am away from the beach for over a week. Furthermore, I like to see the sun set over the sea, not rise. And I like green vegetation much better than brown. As you may have guessed, it is the west coast in the tropic zone that I prefer. Starting at around semi-tropical Mazatlan and continuing all of the way south to the Guatemala border is my preference. I especially like the states of Nayarit, Jalisco and Colima. But there are some significant negatives to my favorite areas that many people cannot adapt to. The summers are hot, humid, rainy, and buggy with the occasional hurricane always a threat. And many of the small coastal villages have few amenities that many of us desire. But you will dine cheaply on fresh fish, you will not endure traffic jams, and the ubiquitous swinging hammock is always nearby for an afternoon siesta. You need to know what you like and what is important to you.

So the first step in finding your spot, the place where you can easily live and adapt to your surroundings, is to do your homework and, above all, be honest with yourself. If you’re a beach person like I am, don’t settle for the highlands or Monterrey. If you need fine shopping and fancy dining, forget the little village 100 miles from that culture. Devour everything you can about Mexico, talk to people who have been, go online, and eventually you will start to narrow down a few potential locations for consideration. Moving to a foreign country, or even making a real estate investment for your occasional use, is one of the most important things you will do in your lifetime. It is a big deal and you need to do it right. 

After you have identified several possible locations that seem workable, if it is at all possible, I highly suggest that you take an extended scouting trip. No words, photos, or videos can come close to giving you a realistic view of what a town is really like. You need to personally experience the place, walk the streets, eat the food, smell the scents. Talk to the locals, native and expat, and determine if you like them. They call Mexico the amigo country, but some places are friendlier than others. At many towns in Mexico you will be readily accepted and will make friends easily. But the cultures within the country are very diverse, and the residents in some areas are extremely guarded and private. Check out the little things as well. Are the streets clean? Are the health facilities adequate for you? Is it too noisy (Mexico is not as quiet as many believe)? Are fresh vegetables abundant? Cold beer? Is the sewer and water system in good shape? Does it feel safe? 

Then, once you have decided on the best place for you, spend some time, maybe a few months in a rental, before you buy. If you plan on being a year-round resident, make sure you test drive the rainy season, generally the months from June through mid-October throughout most of the country. Northern Mexico and Baja get little rain any time of the year.

Of course, you may already be a seasoned, long-time Mexico traveler and know exactly where you want to retire. I have known my spot since the first day I pulled into town. Now, after having seen just about everywhere in Mexico, that spot is still the one.

Visa Options and Requirements

Beginning January 23, 2007, all foreign passengers flying into Mexico will be required to show a passport as a security measure. For those crossing into Mexico by land or sea, the date is June 2009 for compliance. A national identity card may be available in lieu of a passport by that time. 

There are four types of visas currently available for those wanting to live in Mexico. You do not have to give up your American citizenship and there are no minimum age requirements as there have been in the past. There are some financial requirements, as described below. 

A Non-Immigrant Right (DNI) is a fee that must be paid by visitors who enter Mexico as tourists or on business. The fee is right around US$20.00. If entering by plane, the fee is usually included in the price of the airline ticket. If you are driving, taking the bus, or walking into Mexico, you can get a tourist card at the border inspection station/immigration office after showing your identification or passport  proving your US citizenship. You then go to a bank to pay for the card where it will be stamped to show that you've paid. You will then return to the border immigration office to have the card stamped. The stamp shows that you are in the country legally. 

FM-T (TOURIST VISA), also called a Tourist Card. This is the document that you are given whenever you travel to Mexico for more than 72 hours. It allows you to spend 180 days in Mexico out of 365 days. Your permit is entered into a database upon entry. The tourist visa is valid for up to 180 days, but if you are flying into the country it may be stamped for a lesser time period at the whim of the agent who processes the document. You can request that you be given the entire 180 days by citing a valid reason. If you are entering the country via vehicle you will most likely get the 180 days without asking.  

An FM-T is not required if your stay in Mexico is less than 72 hours or if you staying within the “tourist zone,” generally within 15 miles or so from the border. The checkpoint traveling down Baja south of Tijuana is some 70 miles to the south, just beyond Ensenada. Many times there is no one at the checkpoint and Baja seems to have little regulation concerning tourist cards. But if you want to be safe, just take care of it at the border. There is no charge for the card and no income requirements. 

All Mexican permits or visas must be returned to a Mexican Immigration office at a Mexican Port of Entry upon final departure from Mexico or to a Mexican Consulate or Embassy no later than five days following the expiration date. An exit stamp should be obtained upon leaving Mexico. Failure to cancel your permit or visa may result in penalties or fines.  

The requirements for the FM-T visa are as follows:  

●   Valid passport, certificate of naturalization, or an original birth certificate and a valid government issued ID (a photocopy of the document that you present is also required)

●   One front view, color, passport-size photograph.  

FM-3 (Visitante Rentista) The FM-3 is a one-year visa and may be renewed each year for a maximum of five years. You can then apply for another FM-3 or choose to apply for an FM-2. 

The requirements for an FM-3 are: 

●   Valid Passport and one photocopy. The passport must have at least 6 months of validity remaining.  

●   A letter from your bank that verifies that you have a minimum monthly deposit of $1,000 US per person or $1,500 per couple, or copies of your bank statements for the previous six months that prove the same amount of income. However if you own property in Mexico, those totals are reduced by 50%.

●   Four (4) passport front-view and four right-profile view photos. 

●   A completed application form, available at Mexican Consulate offices in the U.S. and Canada. You have 90 days to activate it from that time by having it processed by Mexican Immigration. Or you can wait until you get to Mexico and make your application at any INM (Instituto Nacional de Migraciόn).  

●   Birth Certificate for any dependents you have. 

●   Evidence of your address in Mexico. This can be a utility bill, rental agreement, house deed, etc. 

●   Copies in triplicate of proof that you have paid your immigration taxes (form Sat-5). The current charge is around $100.00 US. 

 ●  Your notarized marriage license. 

It has been reported that Consulate offices can have varying requirements, depending on the office. However, you are required to apply at the office nearest your home. Because of this many people prefer to enter the country with just a tourist visa and then apply for FM-3 status once in Mexico. 

This is a fairly seamless process and is the most preferred by the majority of expats. With the FM-3 you can take household items into the country tax-free. If you can get a work permit, you are allowed to work and you can own a business, although you may be limited as to the type of work you do in your own business. And as long as your FM-3 is valid, so is your car permit. 

FM-2 Requirements 

The FM-2 is best for people who have long-term plans to live in Mexico with the goal of applying for Immigrado status after five consecutive years of renewing their FM-3. The major difference is that the income requirements are greater at $1,500 per month for the retiree and $750 for each dependent. (These numbers could change as they are based on the current minimum wage in Mexico). 

The process for FM-2 is a little more time-consuming and complicated, and many people don’t opt for this status, as it feels very permanent. I suggest that you employ a facilitator to help with this process. 

Immigrado 

Immigrado status is for those people who are sure they are going to remain in Mexico for a long time. With this designation, you have all of the rights of a Mexican citizen except the right to vote. You can buy land and own any business, and you don’t have to relinquish your U.S. citizenship. Your car has to have Mexican registration, and your status can be reversed if you are out of the country for long periods of time. 

Part two of this article will be in the February 2007 issue of Mexico File. The author and editor of The Mexico File, David Simmonds, has a consulting business helping people who would like to explore a move to Mexico. To find out more, go to www.movetomexico.com.