Mexico – A Sublime Feast

by Lisa Coleman

Winner of the 2000 Pluma de Plata Award (the highest honor given to a journalist by the Mexico Ministry of Tourism), Lisa Coleman has been traveling to Mexico for the last 20 years and has been a professional writer for more than 14 years. Lisa has an extensive background in journalism, including writing and publishing her own business book in 1998. Since becoming involved exclusively with Mexico, Lisa has published more than 200 articles on Mexico in various newspapers and magazines across the U.S. and Canada.  

As the sun slowly becomes an emblazoned image on the eastern horizon, the splendor of a Mexican city awakens and tradition comes to life. In the quiet hours of the morning, the local fishermen, farmers, butchers and bakers prepare their offerings for the sea of humanity that will soon pass by to experience the bounty of the land, the people, and the culture.  

Women in brightly colored dresses begin meticulously assembling their tables with succulent fruits and vegetables. A visual banquet of deep reds, brilliant yellows, tantalizing oranges and greens are a vivid contrast against one another. Small children run through the aisles laughing, playing and stopping only long enough to stare in amazement at the shiny fresh fish being arranged in ice and rock salt. A man with a pressed white apron reaches up to suspend from hooks the finest cuts of beef, pork, chicken and game.  A multitude of aromas is swirling in the air, each reaching out to touch the senses. Fresh baked bread, pastries and tortillas intermingle in scent. Baskets of chiles in all shapes, sizes and textures line the walkways. If you close for your eyes for a moment you can almost taste the magic of the extraordinary gastronomy that lies in front of you.  

This is “El Mercado” – the market. Not only is the market the cornerstone of Mexican cooking ingredients, but also a pivotal gathering place for the community. For the people of Mexico, food is more than a necessity, it is a folkloric symbol of their heritage. Here, cuisine is culture. Layered by time, and influenced by its European conquerors, Mexico is the original birthplace of fusion cooking. They have always believed taste, smell and visual beauty of food enriches and inspires the spirit. Their interpretation and preparation of food is a mystical experience, a tribute to the great Mexican imagination. Theirs is truly a sublime feast.  

Mexico has a remarkably powerful indigenous ancestry. As a result, it’s one of the world’s most captivating yet subtle cuisines. Contrary to popular belief, there is no singular, monolithic “Mexican food.” The dishes of this fascinating country are diversified by region, each as unique and distinctive as the area and its people. Throughout time, traditional regional dishes have come to represent unity, identity, and the foundation of a heritage.   

In order to understand the complexities and nuances of authentic Mexican food, it’s imperative to connect destinations with flavors – an Epicurean journey if you will. We will begin with the states along the fertile northern stretch of Mexico’s Pacific shoreline and the expansive region inland known as “El Norte.” Next, to the Bajio, the region of Mexico most intrinsically steeped in Old World Spanish tradition. From there, a glimpse from the snow-capped summit of Orizaba (a gigantic inactive volcano and highest point in Mexico) whose westward view encompasses the great central plains, and whose eastward vista is the dramatic drop into the balmy world of the states that border the Gulf of Mexico. Then, in contrast, we will discover the gastronomic diversity of Mexico City. Our sensory discoveries will conclude with the mysteries of the predominantly Indian areas of the south Pacific coastal region, southern Mexico, the Mundo Maya and the Yucatán. A culinary adventure is in the making.

Mexico’s northernmost stretch of pristine shoreline is washed clear by the peaceful waters of the Gulf of California – a sheltered body of water that opens to the south into the Pacific Ocean. The sea is the primary source of sustenance; it brings life, food, and ritual.  

The morning belongs to fishermen carrying in today’s catch. Straw baskets full of lobster, shellfish and sardines rest near their weathered wooden fishing vessels.  Long poles slung over their backs host red snapper, mackerel, sea bass and amberjack. As the deep-sea boats arrive, an abundance of valiant billfish make their way to the market – marlin, sailfish and swordfish the predominant choices.  

Throughout the north Pacific, the best cuts of fish are often set aside for slow smoking. Seaside palapa-style restaurants serve swordfish smoked over aromatic mesquite giving it a bold, rustic flavor. Tuna is briefly marinated in lime juice and served raw in the form of ceviche. Shrimp, also a standard in ceviche, is cooked and used as filling for tamales. Whole fish (usually red snapper) is skewered on sticks and braced upright in the sand before being grilled over a low fire and highlighted with squirt of fresh lime.  

While the seafood is served, the music plays. This region pulsates with a tropical rhythm brought about by its native son – the Mariachi. Developed in the state of Jalisco as wedding-party entertainment, Mariachi music is now the enduring symbol of Mexico. (Along with tequila, also Jalisco’s gift to world.) 

From the rugged coast of the Baja to the lowlands of the Gulf, the sparsely populated landscape of “El Norte” also maintains its own individual food style. Norteño food, like its cowboy culture, is hearty, robust and simple. Beef (the finest in the country) is expertly raised, prepared and served with spicy beans. Tortillas de harina (wheat-flour tortillas) accompany every meal. Though the north region is the most modern in Mexico, hacienda living prevails as the standard.  

As the rolling plains begin to broaden into the south, rancheros and desert landscape give way to colonial splendor and centuries-old architecture. A region known as the Bajio begins to take shape. Its as though the Spanish conquistadors still remain in the picturesque states of San Luis Potosí, Querétaro, Guanajuato and Michoacán. Green hills, pine trees, wild flowers and farmland give the area a pastoral beauty unrivalled in all of Mexico. Oxen, donkeys and plows are still used as means of cultivating the land. 

Many of the characteristics of the dishes here clearly reflect their Spanish origins: lengua rellena (stuffed tongue), puchero (a rich stew) and fiambre (cold meat) are the most notable. Nonetheless, the Bajio has held tight to its pre-Columbian past. A walk through the local marketplace radiates the heart and soul of its original inhabitants, the Tarascos (Purépecha Indians). Still speaking their native language, they display such unusual treats as cactus blossoms and cactus pads (nopales) – a staple in the Bajio diet.  

Fondas (tent-like or open stalls near the market) sell singular specialties like Michoacán’s infamous carnitas. After an entire pig is slowly braised in a gigantic pot with countless varieties of spices and flavorings, the meat is chopped into thin slices on a wooden block with an arched cleaver. The resultant perfectly delectable cuts of pork are served with stacks of small tortillas, pickled vegetables, chiles, and various salsas.  

In contrast, the Bajio is also home to a fresh water delicacy – the whitefish of Patzcuaro. The striking beauty of Patzcuaro Lake (outside the city of Morelia), fed by mountain streams, is more than 2000 meters above sea level. Local fishermen stand in their boats, perfectly balanced in fluid motion as they gracefully cast hand-woven butterfly nets into the brisk waters and capture thousands of these tiny white fish called charales. Coated in batter, fried and served with a fresh lime, this specialty is one of the most poignant in the region.

The cool stretches of the Bajio pave the way into the Gulf region and central Mexico. The towering Orizaba volcano stands as a centerpiece. Its eastern side is one of the longest mountain slopes in the world, and in less than 50 horizontal miles, glaciers become tropical landscapes, groves of yellow and green bananas, and the temperate home of the states that border the Gulf of Mexico.  

Tabasco, whose very namesake insinuates flavor, and Veracruz, known for exquisite seafood, maintain the essence of the cuisine and culture for the entirety of eastern Mexico. They say Jarochos (the natives of Veracruz) have three passions – celebration, conversation and cuisine. A shady day in the town square will find them at a sidewalk café enjoying sopa de camarón (shrimp soup) or huachinango (Veracruz-style red snapper) while they watch the day pass by. Cold beer accompanied by the sweetness of a locally grown, hand-rolled fine cigar eases them into the afternoon. Near dusk, the aroma of rich highland coffee soothes their senses and steaming café con leche brings the day full circle.  

The prominent influences from the neighboring Caribbean and the Creole culture can also be found in the Gulf’s crayfish dishes, hot spices and red sauces. Yet the use of capers and green olives is surely a derivative of Mediterranean Spain. Despite these cross-cultural hints lingering in the Gulf, the cuisine of the central region remains indisputably Mexican.  

In Puebla, Tlaxcala and Hidalgo, the ingredients are those of their ancestors – corn, beans, tomatoes, and chiles. From that standard comes a representation of inventiveness in a dish known as chiles en nogada. Batter fried chiles are stuffed with various fruits, meats, and spices that transcend Mexican food stereotypes. It is sweet, not spicy, served cold with fresh pomegranate seeds and parsley sprinkled over a white walnut sauce. It becomes a tangible, edible version of the Mexican flag.  

And the patriotism rings true in the foods throughout all the regions. People continuously honor their roots as daily preparation for meals begin. But perhaps the dedication to culinary wealth is most eminently portrayed in the most colossal city the world has ever known – Mexico City. This is an ethnically diverse megalopolis whose cuisine and culture has been exposed to influences far beyond the scope of its boundaries. For the epicure seeking innovation and variety, there is not a more sophisticated selection for the palate in all of Mexico. 

The extensive exposure to a multitude of ethnic landscapes has prompted chefs throughout the city to experiment with new twists to old ways of cooking Mexican. Nueva cocina mexicana (new Mexican kitchen) is undeniably Mexican fare but with a somewhat modern and lighter touch. The trend has been towards salads, possibly with artichokes and squash blossoms, or perhaps a puff-pastry shell filled with fish rolls and a pungent Mexican spice called epazote. Nonetheless, millions of people from everywhere in the country descend on Mexico City and make it their home, and they desperately crave the specialties from their region. 

The result is thousands upon thousands of restaurants specializing in any and every food imaginable from states across the country, and a huge, incomparable selection of markets. In southern Mexico City, one of the world’s most fascinating markets has been in existence since pre-Hispanic times. The “floating gardens” of Xochilmilco are cultivated farm plots in the form of tiny islands (chinampas). Reeds and mud throughout a system of quiet canals anchor them. On market days, flat bottom boats pole through the canals to pick up crates of fruits, vegetables, corn and beans. Some of the boats are simply decorated with a table and a Mariachi to serenade diners wanting an enchanting lunch. The chinampas of Xochilmilco still provide some of the city’s finest produce.  

Salt, lime and a shot glass... or perhaps the ubiquitous margarita? There is certainly more to tequila than meets the eye. This is a spirit with a past, a present, and a future. Rather than being blended, slammed or "shot," tequila is to be savored, much the same as fine cognac.

At least one thousand years prior to Spain's invasion of Mexico, the Tiquila tribe (in the state of Jalisco) discovered and perfected the process of boiling and fermenting the agave plant. A low-alcohol, ritualistic beverage known as pulque was derived and consumed by religious authorities during celebration. In the early 16th Century, Hernan Cortes and his men arrived and brought with them the art of distillation. The result - Tequila.  

The modern process is much the same and still done by hand. The mature heart of the tequila agave looks suspiciously like a pineapple but tips the scales at 50-150 pounds. After being pit roasted for 24 hours, it is ground and shredded by a mule or horse-powered mill. The pulp is strained, fermented in ceramic pots, distilled in copper stills and becomes tequila.  

The freshly produced, basic tequila is always clear and colorless with an alcohol content of 40%. "Gold" tequilas are the consequence of aging in oak barrels. "Reposado" (rested) tequilas must be aged for at least two months and an "añejo"  (aged) tequilas will remain in barrels for a minimum of one year.  

Mexican beer, on the other hand, is far less complex in scope. Flavorful, smooth, light to medium-weight brews, have brought their country international drinking appeal. Regardless, it is impossible to compare the beers sold locally in the country with their exported counterparts. Unfortunately, Mexican breweries produce a separate beer for "gringo" stateside consumption that is not only lighter in taste, but lighter in alcohol content as well. Corona, the most well-known of all Mexican brew, has replaced Heineken as America’s top selling import. 

Wine has been a companion of food since the dawn of time. Yet in Mexico the possibilities of the grape were not discovered until the 18th Century, long after the wine regions of France had defined themselves. A Jesuit priest, Father Juan de Ugarte, and his missionaries arrived to Baja California in 1701 and took charge of the Loreto Mission. It is he who planted the original grapevines on the peninsula and initiated the future of Mexico’s vineyards. 

What most connoisseurs may not know is that Mexico has a privileged region for the breeding and cultivation of great wines. In the northern most part of the Baja Peninsula, predominantly between Ensenada and Tecate, lie two famous valleys – Guadalupe and Calafia. In these areas, well within the wine-producing zone of the Northern Hemisphere, the waters of the Pacific Ocean dictate coastal weather. This creates a somewhat Mediterranean climate with winter rain and dry springs and summers. The result is a weather pattern that resembles that of France’s Rhone and Southern Burgundy regions.  

Mexican wine and winemaking got off to a rather sluggish start and national names struggled to make a reputation for themselves around the world. But over time, modernization, development and a commitment to quality have cultivated the valleys’ resources the highest level. Mexico is indeed producing fine wines. The larger wineries like Pedro Domecq, Bodegas de Santo Tomás and L.A. Cetto continue to elevate the standards of Mexican blends. The smaller boutique houses, namely Cavas Valmar, Monte Xanic, Casa de Piedra,and Chateau Camou are also producing low volume runs of extremely flavorful and structured selections that have gained international notoriety. The level of excellence in today’s wine from the Baja is at a pinnacle never before attained in Mexico. It is not uncommon to see Mexican wines on import lists in the United States and Europe, even in France.