This article is from the June 1999 The
Mexico File newsletter.
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Ensenada
by Robert B. Simmonds,
Ph.D.
Bob Simmonds is the
publisher of The Mexico File
and the brother of David Simmonds, the editor. He is a psychologist in private
practice in San Diego and the editor of Emotional
Wellness Matters, another newsletter produced by Simmonds Publications. He
can be contacted at docbob@ix.netcom.com
You can shoot down the
freeway from La Jolla to the border in twenty minutes, unless there�s a line
at the Mexican auto insurance place at the second exit from the end. And then
it�s sure to be more than twenty minutes until you go through the busiest
border crossing in the world at San Ysidro. You know you�ve made a big
commitment when you�re waved through to Mexico because coming back you�re
going to have to wait in a line � maybe half an hour, maybe two hours, maybe
longer. It depends on the day � and what it�s like the day you come back.
Crossing into Mexico is no problem at all, on the other hand.
Before you know it,
you�re being swooped along on a curving and primitive freeway in rushing and
confused traffic. Just repeat the mantra, �stay to the left, stay to the
left.� And if you�re lucky and have stayed to the left, you�ll have no
choice but to exit onto the Rosarito/Ensenada cuota. Whew. Look to your
left and see third-world squalor built up the sides of Tijuana�s hills and
look to your right and see the gleaming skyscrapers of San Diego on the bay
some seventeen miles in the distance. And reflect for a moment. That�s how
long you�ll have before you have to stop to pay the first $2.95US toll, at
the first of three toll booths on the 75-mile drive down to Ensenada. But
it�s well worth it (the libre is very slow, to say the least, and
it�s not very safe � but you can get some great clay pottery just south of
Rosarito Beach if you take the libre...just don�t expect it to last
over three years before it starts crumbling.)
The scenery on the cuota
down to Ensenada has been called some of the best in the world. And if the
skies are blue, you�ll agree. Of course, you have to get past the miles and
miles of resorts, condos and houses built on the beach and owned mostly by gringos,
those who want an affordable taste of beachfront luxury for the weekends and
retirement. Stop at the viewpoint called El Mirador about two-thirds of the
way down. A few years ago this was just a dirt parking lot off of the main
road, but now it�s built up with restaurants, gift shops, picnic tables,
bathrooms and viewing patios...and some of the brightest colors you�ve ever
seen on the walls of buildings. The view from this lookout point overlooking
the ocean and the hills down the coast will send you to spiritual realms. When
the whales are migrating in the winter you might be able to catch their spouts
out in the ocean. The rest of the drive down to Ensenada is like Big Sur
without trees � but with plenty of cactus, geraniums planted in the median,
boulders, and views several hundred feet down to the ocean. This is a
world-class drive.
And then you hit the old,
classic speed bumps just before you enter Ensenada proper. These speed bumps,
which have been there forever, were kinder to my old Jeep than they were to my
new Beetle, which is built very low to the ground (although to have an Andrea
Bocelli CD playing eases the experience tremendously � but one wonders
whether an Italian tenor sets the proper mood for a weekend in Ensenada). You
are now on the harborside Boulevard Costero, which is one of the two main
drags that travelers frequent. Make a left-hand turn anywhere along the
boulevard, go a block, and you�ll be at Avenida Lopez Mateos, the other main
road and the center of commerce for turistas.
The Gentrification of
Ensenada
Back in the old days, when
I first started going down to Ensenada (we are talking two or three decades
now...and we won�t mention my very first trip as a kid which is now four
decades!), there was little difference in the tone of Ensenada compared to
Tijuana�s Avenida Revoluci�n. You know � the hawkers, the sombreros, the
kids selling Chiclets, the ability to bargain, the dust, the excitement, the
noise. But now the two cities are a world apart. Ensenada is now gentrified,
or in the process anyway. I first started noticing the difference about ten
years ago when many shopkeepers refused to bargain and seemed offended that I
would even think of such a tactic.
This was my first trip to
Ensenada in a couple of years and I was surprised by the upgrade. Avenida
Lopez Mateos has now been narrowed drastically and the sidewalks widened.
Trees have been planted on the sidewalks and most of the restaurants have
seating out front. There are fewer cars on the street, which creates a quieter
and more refined feel. The shops, some of which are elegant, carry Lladros
from Spain (the prices aren�t much lower than in the States, but you don�t
pay duty in Baja), perfumes from France, clothes from anywhere in the world.
Many shops sell authentic Indian crafts...pottery, baskets, leather,
paintings, etc., and we�re not talking the cheap stuff. These are
handcrafted goods created by artisans. And there is Taxco silver and Talavera
pottery. Prices in Ensenada tend to be high, but the selections are amazing.
(If you want real bargains, they are available in Ensenada � but you have to
walk a couple of blocks inland out of the tourist area.)
A Tale of Two Cities
And why have the two
cities, Ensenada and Tijuana, drifted so far apart in their ambience? Blame it
on the Love Boats. Everyday, in the morning, the cruise ships from major West
Coast cities dump off their load of passengers to spend the day in Ensenada.
And busloads of Japanese tourists come in daily as well from north of the
border. These people come loaded with dough and they�re ready to spend it.
So Ensenada grows wealthier, the shops are upgraded, and Tijuana, which relies
on one-day border crossers and teenagers looking for alcohol, limps along
(although this, admittedly, is slowly changing also with the recent rise of
industry in Tijuana). Besides, Ensenada has four universities, not bad for a
city of about 200,000 (of which about 30,000 are gringos), not to mention a
deepwater harbor which berths a large fishing industry. With its Mediterranean
climate and underground supplies of water, the farmlands around Ensenada grow
olives and grapes and there are several good wineries located near Ensenada.
There is a plantation about 30 miles northeast of Ensenada near Guadalupe with
over 120,000 olive trees. The Oliveres Mexicanos plantation is the world�s
single largest producer of olives.
The Blare of the Disco
Our first night in
Ensenada colored the rest of the trip, and not in a very good way. There�s
no better trip-killer than a sleepless first night. Cheryl and I checked into
Villa Fontana, which is actually a Days Inn, and were initially quite excited
about it. It�s on the main tourist street, and we wanted a balcony room
overlooking the street. What better way to enjoy the sights and sounds of
Ensenada? Maybe it was the cockroaches crawling all over the counter in the
bathroom or the fact that the toilet paper slipped off the spool which gave us
the first hints of trouble. But our mood was good and forgiving initially.
What we didn�t know was that Friday night is cruise night on Avenida Lopez
Mateos. From 9:00 until midnight there was a steady stream of cars, some with
full-sized speakers blaring from open car trunks, inching along a few feet
below our balcony. The occupants of these cars were drinking and looking for
fun � much like a Happy Days scene in fifties and sixties America. All
right, not so bad, and we were expecting to enjoy the local color. But then
around midnight the disco right across the street, Sam�s Bar, started
blaring disco music in English from speakers which seemed aimed right at our
room. Boom boom bah boom. The windows rattled with every boom and our peaceful
hotel room was transformed into a teenaged dance hall. This went on until 3:30
in the morning. Boom boom boom. We shoulda spent the night in Hussong�s!
(To be fair to the
management of Villa Fontana, when I complained the next morning about the
disco music, I was told that I could have gone down to the front desk and
requested a quieter room in the back. But I wasn�t inclined to dress and
pack up again at that time of the night and I kept hoping the music would end
soon. Besides, they should have told us this when we first checked in)
Hussong�s Cantina
Everyone has their
favorite Hussong�s story. This ramshackle bar, established by a German
immigrant, Johan Hussong, in 1892, has barely changed in over a hundred years,
except now they have electricity. The local legends say that it�s been a
favorite partyhole for the likes of Ernest Hemingway and John Steinbeck. Other
legends say that Ensenada is a city �built around a bar,� and this bar is
Hussong�s. The walls are loaded with heads of animals and photographs of
partying groups from over the years. Hussong�s Cantina is the embodiment of
the classical expatriate hangout. Mariachi bands go from table to table
looking for takers, and they do well. In Hussong�s you sit, you drink, you
talk, and you come close to finding the meaning of life, at least for the
night. I�m not a drinker, but in Hussong�s I drink without compunction.
It�s a time and place apart from the ordinary. They say that their
margaritas are the best in Ensenada, but I always drink Brandy Fundadors when
I�m in Hussong�s. After about four of them I become John Steinbeck. If you
plan to do Hussong�s for the night, get there in the late afternoon if you
want a table. Before long you�ll find yourself talking to a variety of
different sorts of people, all of them interesting, and moving all over the
bar to do so. Unless they come to you � and they will.
As for favorite
Hussong�s stories.... My friend Mark told me about the time he was in there
and a Mexican fugitive came running through the bar out to the back parking
lot with police shooting at him � through the bar! Something of a cross
between the Keystone Cops and Rambo. And I think my favorite Hussong�s
story, and this was several years ago, involves a blonde woman named Evelyn
from El Centro, California, who I ended up talking to at the bar for eight
hours straight. We talked about life on a deep level the entire time and I
don�t think I�ve ever felt closer to anyone in my life. And at the end of
it she left with her boyfriend who had been there, somewhere, the whole night.
I meant to write to her but never did.
But now the times are
different. Although Hussong�s itself has not changed at all, the shops
surrounding it all seem to be outlets for Hussong�s t-shirts, mugs, and
other souvenir items. The sleepy bar enters the era of the next millennium.
But if you spend an evening in Hussong�s, you too will want a Hussong�s
t-shirt � something tangible to remind you later of the magic.
�It Takes the Sting
Out of Being Occupied�
You wouldn�t expect this
at all, but Ensenada claims one of the best French restaurants in the Western
hemisphere. El Rey Sol (#1000 Avenida Lopez Mateos) was founded on May 23,
1947, by Virginia Geffron de Bitterlin (or Do�a Pepita). She was born in
Santa Rosal�a on the Sea of Cortez and studied for sixteen years at the Cord�n
Bleu School of Cooking in France. What started as a small restaurant with ten
seats now seats 240 in subdued luxury, and much of the food is grown or raised
on the family farm in Santo Tom�s near Ensenada. Do�a Pepita died in 1989,
and the restaurant is now run by her son, Jean-Loup Bitterlin.
If you go, and you should,
chat a bit with the maitre d�, Daniel Angeles Martinez. He set us up with a
perfect corner table which had a good view of the entire restaurant and the
piano player who did the standard mid-century numbers like �La Vie en
Rose� and �As Time Goes By.� Two excellent choices on the menu are the
Coquilles St. Jacques (so good these scallops are to die for...but then
Ensenada is a seaport town) and the Chicken with Prunes and Port Wine Sauce.
And get the plate of appetizers with potatoes in a mustard-egg sauce,
marinated tuna, stuffed prunes and stuffed celery. Their bread is
out-of-this-world good. Granted, the white zinfandel was just a bit too sweet
and the flan was just average, but you�ll enjoy the experience of formal
dining in a large and elegant dining room with impeccable service. Although El
Rey Sol is classified as �expensive,� we got out of there, the two of us,
for $42.90US total. And don�t forget to go back the next morning for
breakfast where you�ll be wow�ed by the pastries.
The Wineries
The first cuttings of
grape vines were brought to Mexico from Spain in the early sixteenth century
by Hern�n Cort�s. The first winery in Mexico was founded in the state of
Coahuila by Jesuit missionaries in 1597, and the grapes eventually migrated
north to the valleys of Baja California, the most favorable wine-producing
regions in Mexico. (And eventually, of course, the vines traveled even further
up to the present wine-producing regions of northern California.) The first
winery in Baja was started in 1791 by Padre Jos� Lorieto about thirty miles
south of Ensenada, and this was the Misi�n Santo Tom�s de Aquino. The wines
were used for the church. When the mission was secularized in 1888, an Italian
immigrant founded Bodegas (Warehouses) de Santo Tom�s, and operations were
moved to Ensenada in 1939 by its subsequent owner, Abelardo Lujan Rodriguez,
after he had served a term as Mexico�s president. Today Mexico�s wines
from the region around Ensenada are achieving competitive recognition in
comparison with European, Californian, South African, Australian and Chilean
wines.
From Avenida Lopez Mateos
turn inland on Avenida Macheros for about three or four blocks and you�ll
come to Bodegas de Santo Tom�s. Tours of the warehouses are $2.00US for the
regular tour and $5.00 for the premium tour, which includes a free wine glass.
The fields produce 14 different kinds of grapes in the Guadalupe Valley and
the winery produces 18 different wines. They now export all over the world and
because of the duty find it cheaper to export their wines to Europe than the
U.S. The wines of Santo Tom�s are available in the U.S. now only in New York
and Chicago. Marco, our winery tourguide, took us underground to the cellars
where we saw racks of champagne bottles which are turned by hand three times a
day for one and one-half years. After the tour, help yourself to all the wine
you can drink, along with bread and cheese. Ensenada has five other wineries,
but none as established as Santo Tom�s, and tours can be arranged by calling
them beforehand.
Jack Dempsey�s
Gambling Casino
In 1929 the Playa Ensenada
Hotel and Casino was opened by Jack Dempsey and his financial backers (one of
whom, or so legend has it, was Al Capone). The entertainment for the opening
night gala was Bing Crosby backed by the Xavier Cugat Orchestra. One of the
singers was a Baja native, Margarita Carmen Cansino � who later changed her
name to Rita Hayworth. The casino/hotel thrived for a few years until
Prohibition was repealed in the U.S. in 1933, and that drastically reduced the
appeal of a trip across the border down Mexico way for a drinking and gambling
weekend � not to mention the depression economy. The establishment closed
shortly thereafter and fell into disrepair. In 1977 the city took over the
operation of this building and restored it. Now it�s the Social, Civic and
Cultural Center of Ensenada (or the Cultural Center for short). The building
is hired out for public events and conventions, as well as weddings and
private parties.
It would be well worth
your time to spend a couple of hours at the Cultural Center, which is located
on Avenida Costero at the corner of Avenida Riviera. For $1.00US you can take
a tour of the Natural History Museum located at the north end of the building
where you can see a small (six-room), but very impressive, display of
artifacts of Amerindian cultures which date back to the San Diegito Culture of
10,500 to 8,500 years ago. Many examples of primitive rock art from the Baja
peninsula have also been recreated in this museum. The second floor of this
museum is devoted to displays of the routes of the European explorers and the
life of the Catholic missionaries. On the ground floor, adjacent to the
museum, is a library which is open from 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Monday through
Saturday. Most impressive of all, however, is a walk through the restored
mission-style building and its grounds. A hand-painted sign in the main
hallway lists several of the visitors to the old hotel/casino in the 1930's
� Dolores Del Rio, Marian Davies, William Randolph Hearst, Merle Oberon,
Lupe Velez, Johnny Weismuller, Myrna Loy, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Lana
Turner, Ali Khan, Gene Tierney. The gardens are beautiful with numerous
fountains and rose gardens. This is a place of tranquility.
The Fish Market
Ensenada is a major
fishing and fish-processing center, the largest seaport on the Baja Peninsula.
And you can take advantage of it by visiting the fish market. If you�re
camping or have cooking facilities, this is the place to load up on fresh
fish. Vendors hawk shelves of their specialties, which is probably the largest
display of fish you�ll ever see. I noticed that large shrimp sold for
$11.00US per kilo. And if you just want to buy a fish dinner or snack, the
market itself is surrounded by stalls where you can sit, relax and enjoy good
food. If you have never tried a fish taco, this is the place in Mexico to do
it � and then you�ll want two or three more. (My brother�s friend, Ralph
Rubio, got the idea of selling fish tacos in the U.S. from Baja...and this
resulted in Rubio�s Restaurants, Inc., which has been extremely successful
in San Diego, recently went public and is expanding now to other states.)
Personally, I prefer the oyster cocktails (cocteles de ostione), which
seem, for me, to set the right mood for a few days in Mexico. You can also try
the cocteles de almejas (clams), camar�n (shrimp), or abul�n
(abalone). The oyster cocktails are served in a large plastic glass with
one of those white plastic spoons, and the large size (with a dozen oysters
included) sells for about $4.00 or $5.00US. The recipe for these cocktails is
simple...dump in the fish, the juice from the shellfish, chopped onions,
chopped tomatoes, plenty of chopped cilantro, a dash of pepper sauce, and a
squirt of lime juice...and they are oh so good. I head straight for the oyster
cocktail stands first thing when I arrive in Ensenada.
These days you have to
search for the fish market, unlike in the old days when it was clearly visible
to the right just as you entered Ensenada on Boulevard Costero. A few years
ago they built a huge Plaza Marina in front of the fish market (or Mercado de
Mariscos), a three story modern edifice with spaces for shops. And that is
precisely what it remains � but there�s hardly an open shop in the
building. An exception is Sanborn�s Caf�, which is located on the ground
floor and serves moderately priced dinners. To get to the fish market, just
walk behind the Plaza Marina.
The Blowhole
A nice afternoon sidetrip
from Ensenada is a 16-mile drive south of the city along Mexico 1 and BCN 23
(the turnoff from Mexico 1 is just north of the village of Maneadero, where
you turn right onto BCN 23). On the drive down along Mexico 1 you will see
several stands along the road selling tamales and jars of olives. You�ll be
happy if you stop, as will the vendors. The tamales are authentic and come in
several varieties � beef, chicken, corn and pineapple. And at most of these
stands you�ll also see jars and jars of green olives which are grown
nearby...and they are a very good bargain, freshly cured and tasty. On the way
down, you might also want to stop in at the Estero Beach Resort Hotel located
on Bahia de Todos Santos. This old resort has been recently refurbished and
has full RV sites. RV�ers have full use of the resort�s tennis courts,
clubhouse and boat ramp. It is interesting to see miles of farmland, fed by
underground reservoirs, in this otherwise dry part of the Baja Peninsula.
At the southern end of
Bahia de Todos Santos is a rocky peninsula called Punta Banda. It is largely
unpopulated except for a few campgrounds and the Baja Beach and Tennis Club.
There are many trails just off the road which are excellent for hiking and
spectacular views. And at the end of the road you will find La Bufadora (or
the Blowhole). It�s like a natural carburetor. Waves come rushing into a
cavern, churn around and then a spout of water comes spewing out from a hole
in the top of the cavern. The fun part of this is to get close (immersing
yourself in the crowd around you) and then, when a really good wave comes
along and a 30-foot spew comes rushing out, everyone will scream and laugh and
run for safety and then console themselves in their shared danger. It�s
better than the Shamu show at Sea World. Now that La Bufadora has been
upgraded with restrooms, electricity and a parking lot (pay about a buck a
car), the stands lining the road are turning into regular restaurants.
La Fonda
On your drive back north
from Ensenada to the border, you should stop at La Fonda, especially if
you�re driving back on a Sunday before 3:00 p.m. so that you can try their
brunch. Take La Mision/Alisitos exit from the toll road and you will drive
south a short distance to La Fonda Hotel. This is an old hotel, popular in the
1930's and 1940's, with spectacular grounds and ocean views from the cliff. It
is an old hangout for Lana Turner, Clark Gable, Rita Hayworth and other movie
stars. Brunch (and dinners) are served on an outdoor patio overlooking the
best beaches between Tijuana and Ensenada with palapa umbrellas over each
table. For $10.95US a person you will get a full brunch served cafeteria
style. You might want to try the huevos rancheros and the quail, which
is perfect preparation for the impending wait to cross the border. And to come
home, and back to reality, again.
A Little Luxury in
Ensenada
Ensenada now has full
marina and resort facilities at the Hotel Coral and Marina. A couple of years
ago we took advantage of a weekend package they were offering ($220 for the
weekday package and $280 for the weekend package, which includes two nights in
a junior deluxe suite, one dinner per person and a one-half hour massage or
facial per person). This facility offers international-class accommodations, a
marina and a European-style spa. There are heated indoor and outdoor pools
with poolside bars, jacuzzis, steamrooms, saunas, and complete massage
packages available. The hotel also has a nightclub with dancing, a fine
restaurant, lobby bars, lighted tennis courts, and a dive shop. The Hotel
Coral represents what we might imagine the future of Ensenada to be, and
it�s a fine start. To make reservations, call 800-6-3100 in Mexico and
800-862-9020 from the U.S., and when you get to Ensenada, take the �Ensenada
Centro� exit off of the toll road and head toward the high rise.
Where to Stay in
Ensenada
Ensenada�s hotel prices
are fairly expensive, especially in comparison to similar room in mainland
Mexico � and, for the most part, there is nothing special about any of them.
Nonetheless, here are some we can recommend.
Bahia Resort Hotel,
Avenida Lopez Mateos between Riveroll and Alvarado. Telephone: (61) 78-2101.
This
hotel was once very popular, especially with the Baja 1000 crowd. Now the
rooms are cheap, but the place is run down and needs renovation. It is
centrally located and has a pool and restaurant. $35.50 weekdays, $39.50
weekends.
El
Cid Motor Hotel, Avenida Lopez
Mateos 993. Telephone: (61) 78-2401. Across the street from Villa Fontana,
centrally located, and a popular place for couples. Has a good restaurant and
nightclub, La Capilla del Cid (don�t try their flan...it tastes like it came
from a box) with a nice atmosphere. A loud disco is right next door. $42.00
weekdays, $65.00 weekends.
Villa
Fontana Days Inn, Avenida Lopez
Mateos 1050. Telephone (61) 78-3434. Right in the center of things, this
rambling structure has internal parking and a pool. Watch out for cockroaches
and ask for a room away from the main street if you don�t tolerate booming
disco music till 3:30 in the morning. $60.00.
Hotel La Pinta, Avenida Floresta at Bucaneros. Telephone: (61) 76-2601. Once part of the El Presidente chain, it is now independent and overpriced. It is near off-track betting parlor for gambling. Rooms are built around a small pool with some balconies facing the bay. $55.00 weekdays, $72.00 weekends.
Hotel
Mision Santa Isabel, Boulevard
Costero 1119. Telephone: (61) 78-3616. Mission-style architecture with nice,
quiet, breezy rooms � however, the pool was empty, there was no air
conditioning, no remote control, and the restaurant was closed the entire
weekend. $61.00.
Best
Western Casa del Sol, Avenida
Lopez Mateos 1001. U.S. Reservations: 800-528-1234. Spanish-mission style,
motel-like, great pool with upstairs cantina. Large room are air-conditioned,
have cable TV and tiled bathrooms. $58.00 every day of the week.
Suites
Las Rosas, four miles north of town on Mexico 1. Telephone: (61) 74-4310. Splurge
for ocean front rooms just north of Ensenada. Elegant dining room, nice pool,
spa, jacuzzi, sauna, exercise center, racquetball. $132.00.