This article is from the November 2001 The Mexico
File newsletter.
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Acapulco, The Original Party Town
by David Simmonds
My
first time in Acapulco was in the early 70’s. I pulled into town hung over, in
a second-class bus, a well-used backpack in hand, and about $200 remaining in my
money belt. Was life a whole lot simpler then, or is it just me?
All
that I really remember from my first visit was sleeping on the beach south of
town and a couple of spirited girls from Iowa who were headed for Costa Rica.
Somehow I missed the jet-set parties and the swank hotels I had seen in the
Elvis movie, but the beauty of the bay and the green hills surrounding it were
pleasures enough. Alas, I only stayed a couple of days before continuing to
Honduras where I was to visit my ex-girlfriend who was a Peace Corp volunteer.
Fast-forward
to the year 2001. After traveling most of the roads in Mexico for nearly 30
years, I still had never returned to Acapulco. But now I had an invitation to
attend, all expenses paid, the annual Tianguis convention/trade show sponsored
by the Mexican government for the travel industry. I returned again for this
year’s Tianguis and had the fortune to discover more about the town that put
Mexico vacations on the travel map. Although Acapulco isn’t my favorite
destination, there are many good reasons to want to visit this unique and
storied city.
Acapulco
became the hangout for the Hollywood elite in the early 1950’s, attracting
such icons as John Wayne, Cary Grant, Errol Flynn and, for a few laughs, Red
Skelton. Later on Elizabeth Taylor wed Mike Todd there and it was the honeymoon
choice for Henry Kissinger (he’s married?), Brigitte Bardot and JFK. But,
contrary to typical American belief, the history and importance of the region
can be traced to around 3000 B.C., as evidenced by recent archaeological
discoveries. The earliest inhabitants grew crops in the fertile soil and fished
in the ocean and streams, but had little contact with other people. The area was
eventually settled by the Nahoas, an offshoot of the Nahuatl. The name Acapulco
is derived from the Nahuatl words Acatl (place of canes) Pol (to break) and Co
(place).
Although
generally accepted history tells us that the first “discoverers” of Mexico
were Spanish, the local historians will tell you that a Chinese monk named Fa
Hsien predated Cortez by 100 years. He is said to have visited on several
occasions, each time bringing silk clothes and introducing rice to the local
diet. It is further claimed that there was a stone near La Quebrada, where the
famed cliff divers perform, that told the story of the Chinese connection, but
that the rock was destroyed during construction of a hotel, erasing any evidence
of the lore.
The
Spanish used Acapulco as the port for the trade route to the Philippines from
1565 to 1815, when Mexico’s independence from Spain and a changing world
rendered the trade route outdated and useless. The port became a leading trading
center for Spanish ships returning from the Orient. Ships loaded with silks,
porcelain, jade, ivory, spices and incense were brought to the port and then
transported by land on a six-foot wide trail to Veracruz, on the Gulf coast. The
journey took about three weeks. It went from being operative, along with
Veracruz, Mexico’s most important port, to virtual obscurity, isolated from
the rest of the country. Acapulco became an official city in 1799, but with the
War of Independence the town started to decline. The locals sided with the
Spanish royalists, fueling the ire of insurgent leader José María Morelos, who
attacked the city and promptly burned it to the ground in 1814. Acapulco
remained mostly forgotten until the California gold rush in the 1850’s, when
ships began dropping in on their way to Panama and hauling Mexican textiles on
the return trip back to San Francisco. Then, in 1927, a road was paved from a
growing Mexico City, bringing the first tourists, as well the Prince of Wales
who enjoyed the fishing. Author and playwright Tennessee Williams was a frequent
visitor who set his famous Night of the Iguana there, although the John
Huston directed movie was filmed in Puerto Vallarta many years later. By the
1950’s Acapulco was rocking and rolling, which is where it finds itself today
in the new millennium. And quite frankly, it’s a little overbuilt. The natural
setting, with the Sierra Madre falling into the Bahía de Acapulco, is one of
the world’s prettiest. But the once green hills have slowly become gray
concrete with the bay view largely obscured by high-rise hotels. I see some of
the same mistakes now being made in Puerto Vallarta, although not to the same
degree. PV has managed to retain a small town ambience and the high rises are
away from the town center, whereas Acapulco set a precedent years ago that was
impossible to reverse. One of Mexico’s oldest towns, it is hard to find its
long history in any form.
A
recently restored exception is the Fuerte de San Diego, named after the viceroy
of New Spain, Diego Fernández de Córdoba, now housing the Acapulco Historical
Museum. The original fort, built in 1615, was destroyed by a massive earthquake
in 1776. The present fort was built as a replacement on the same spot, and was
completed in 1783. With the pirates and looters in full force on this coast, the
fort was designed employing the most advanced architectural concepts from that
time. The shape, predating the U.S. military headquarters by well over 100
years, is that of a pentagon surrounded by a dry moat. It was able to house over
2,000 troops along with ammunition and provisions to last a year. With an
efficient rainwater intake and storage system, the fort covered a total area of
nearly 100,000 square feet.
After
the fort was no longer needed to defend against enemy attacks (one could argue
that the developers might have qualified as the enemy), the fort was used for
various purposes until it became the Historical Museum in 1986. The more recent
restoration has been a marvelous success and deserves a couple of hours of your
time while visiting Acapulco. Each room around the building features a facet of
the history of the fort and the town such as The Pacific Piracy room, the East
Trade room, the Independence room, and the Manila Galleon room. A welcome
surprise is found in being able to read many of the on-site descriptions in
English as well as Spanish. The fort is open to the public Tuesday through
Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:40 p.m.
PARTYING
DIVERSIONS
No
doubt, Acapulco has a well-deserved reputation for night-life marathons with
many warriors going from their
room-to-the-beach-to-their-room-to-the-disco-to-someone’s room, day after
sunny day. This is the drill until it’s time to fly home feeling several years
older, belching margarita mix and gobbling Tylenol. Ah, but there is more to do,
much more, if you take the time to explore.
The
first thing you notice about Acapulco is that it’s right on the beach. This
part of the Pacific Ocean has some of the finest deep-sea fishing in the world.
Striped-marlin, billfish, bonito, pompano, red snapper, and tuna are in
abundance year-round. In the fresh-water lagoons you can hook up with mullet,
catfish and carp. Most hotels can arrange your fishing trip or you can go to the
Pesca Deportiva office on the downtown pier. All categories of boats and
amenities are available.
Small
sailboats, power boats and personal watercraft can be rented at many places, but
make sure you know what you’re doing. The Pacific can get very rough on this
southern coast, especially outside the protection of the bay. Even in the bay,
in front of your hotel, the shore-break can face-plant you in a split-second and
cause serious injury that can absolutely ruin your holiday, if not your life.
Red and black flags indicate that the conditions are not safe, but let your eyes
be the determining factor. All of the beaches are open to the public, even those
at the expensive, luxury resorts, and you can usually rent a chair and order
food and drinks at any of them.
The
most popular beach in town for international travelers is Playa La Condesa
located between the El Presidente and Continental Acapulco hotels. This is where
the party atmosphere is most evident for the thonged-bikini and surfer wannabe
crowd. But don’t expect a celebrity sighting. They usually hang out in private
villas, poolside.
The
locals like to frequent the original popular beach in town, Playa Caleta.
Located on the peninsula in near Old Acapulco, the waters here are calmer than
elsewhere, buffered by Isla la Roqueta. It’s a good place to spend an
afternoon and mix with the Mexican families, trying to forget that your hotel
room probably costs more than they earn in a month. It’s also a good point to
hire a boat ride for a little exploring and a visit to Roqueta, a 10-minute boat
ride. There you will find a beautiful beach, great diving, and even a small zoo.
Just off shore from the island is a sunken statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe,
who certainly does get around.
South
of town are Puerto Marques, a stunningly beautiful protected bay, and Playa
Revolcadera. This area is referred to as Acapulco Diamante and is where the
newer resorts are being built. For the most part they have learned from their
earlier mistakes of walling off the beaches with tall buildings. The properties
here are more low-rise, consuming many acres. Some of the better examples are
the Acapulco Princess Hotel, Vidafel Mayan Palace, Camino Real Diamante (a
personal favorite), and the Pierre Marques Hotel. Ask your travel agent for
brochures on these and other hotels. Many of them have web pages easily found on
all the major search engines.
I
usually suggest searching out the small inns in Mexico that will provide you
with a cultural experience and a connection to the locals that you just don’t
get at the large chain hotels. But, in Acapulco, with a single exception, I
haven’t been able to find the type of hotel I would normally recommend. So, my
suggestion on this trip is to plan on spending some money and stay at one of the
world-class hotels on the beach. Or, for a very special occasion (honeymoon,
facelift, kids leave home) you might want to opt for the pink-jeeped Hotel Las
Brisas. Although it is now in its fourth decade of operation, this hillside
resort maintains the highest standards to contend in this competitive market.
The view from Las Brisas is still the best in Acapulco, and the bungalows, many
with private pools, are guaranteed to rekindle the romance that may have grown a
little stale over the years. A trip to the disco, or anywhere else, becomes a
low priority when you’re kicked back at a place like this.
On
a much smaller and cheaper scale I like the Hotel Los Flamingos. Built in the
1930’s, this hotel perches 450 feet above the ocean with spectacular sunset
views. Located in an older section of town, it is just minutes away from the
famed La Quebrada, site of the cliff-divers known throughout the world. Also
nearby are Old Acapulco, the zócalo, and the bullring. Sitting in the open air
bar and patio, you are easily transported back to the 50’s when Johnny
Weissmuller was the principal owner with his partners John Wayne, Richard
Widmark, Roy Rogers and Cary Grant. I also highly recommend the food at the
hotel. I was hosted to a great dinner here by AeroMexico that was a highlight of
my trip. Afterward, the owner entertained us at the bar on his classical guitar,
which he plays at an incredible level of skill.
Los
Flamingos is not a luxury resort, rather a very comfortable slice of history.
This feels like Mexico, the part of Mexico that keeps me coming back. It is on
secluded grounds filled with vegetation and only about 30 rooms, some nicer than
others. Room rates range from about $50 to $125 for the junior suite, or you can
work out a deal to rent Tarzan’s Round House, where Weissmuller used to live
and play.
When
and How to Go
Like
much of Mexico, Acapulco has two seasons. The high season starts in mid-December
and ends on Easter week, which is a very busy week with anticipated pricing. The
low season is summer, which starts after Easter week and lasts until
mid-December. This is when you can find the better deals, but you might get
slammed by a hurricane, or certainly some serious rains. As you might guess,
that’s when I like it best. It kind of weeds out those people looking for
perfection in their vacations, always somewhat disappointed because that’s
just not the way life is. To me, there is nothing finer than gazing out at a
late afternoon rainstorm, sunburnt shoulders, and a cold Carta Blanca within my
grasp.
Over 100 flights a week go into Acapulco’s international airport by many of the major airlines. As always, I suggest AeroMexico first to see if that works for you. If you are in Mexico City, Acapulco is only a 3½ hour drive on the Autopista. You might want to stop over for a night in Taxco on the way for some silver purchases and small town charm.
Hotel Las Brisas: Westin reservations inU.S. is 800-228-3000. In Mexico call 744-84-1650. www.differentworld.com/mexico/hotels/lasbrisas/pages/entrance.htm Check out the web site for specials, to see photos and reserve online. This is a great, historic property with over 250 swimming pools, fine dining, awesome views, pink jeeps. Rooms start at a low season rate of $160 per night for a shared pool, up to over $1100 for a 2-bedroom suite. If you have the bucks…go for it.
Hotel Los Flamingos: Av. Lopez Mateos, tel. 744-82-0690. www.acabtu.com.mx/flamingos The old Hollywood hangout, high on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific, this is a comfortable, more affordable way to visit Acapulco. Excellent food and hosts, close to the old town and cliff-divers. Rooms from $50 to $125 per night.
Camino Real Diamante: 800-722-6466 in U.S. In Mexico 744-35-1010. email aca@caminoreal.com www.caminoreal.com/acapulco/01_i.htm Luxury resort with just 157 rooms on the incomparable Puerto Marques Bay. One of the most attractive hotels in Mexico, Spanish colonial style with three swimming pools, waterfalls, lush vegetation, four restaurants. Call for prices and specials.